the question is spacing and ratio

[i8urbrain]

Cost is no option. I have purchased a very very sweet Gunnar Street Dog frame, and I have a tax return that is footing the bill. My only question is weather I should run a track crank165mm and a 49 tooth ring, and the recomended 109mm bottom bracket, or can I run the Race Face crank and the 113 bottom bracket, I would love to keep a beefy crank, and bottom bracket. I am just curious if that will throw off my chain line too much and I should just stop thinking about it and run the DuraAce stuff. I am not a shimano fan and would love to keep all of my bike as Shimano and Campy free as possible. Any sugestions would be helpfull. I have all of the rest of the bike sorted out. I think I will run a 49/17 or 49/16. If I use the 110 spacing of a mountain crank I can run a 48/16. Grrr. My wife is going to kill me for spending this much time on another bike. LOL. Thanks for the help. Oh yeah it will be a fixed/fixed hub.

[Andy in Wi]

cranks have this deal called Q factor, which I'm not sure why it is Q, but basically, it describes how far the crankarm comes away from the bike. Raceface standards have a high Q factor, and I actually had to run a 109 mm bb on my track rig where a 113 was doing the job with sugino track cranks. But that was a surly, I don't know how the gunnar will turn out.
if you have cranks now, fit 'em and test the chain line. You can always change cranks
-WiBA

[SynicGeek]

I don't know where you live, but even if it's flat, you don't want to run to big a gear in case of things like wind and unexpected hills. I'd be a person to run a 165mm Dura Ace Track crank with a 47T ring, with a 15T on one side, and a 17T cog on the other of the hub, just for the range. And always run odd sized rings and cogs, they don't wear out as fast.
Brett

[i8urbrain]

If I use a 113mm bottom bracket and a mountain crank with a 49 tooth, or 47tooth front ring, then I can use a 16/17 combo in the rear, maybe 15/16 combo, if I am using Phil Wood rear hubs it seems that I can adjust the cog outward toward the dropout and adjust for not using a track crank. This will allow me the stiff crank I want and keep my chain line pretty strait. Or I should just run a small ring on the Suguino, or Truvative track crank.and accept that the spacing will be better aswell as the Q-factor?

[riderx]

You are only talking about a BB difference of 2mm per side [ (113 - 109)/2 ], not a whole lot. Plus, Race Face BBs are adjustable, so you can play with things a bit. Throw on a 1/8 inch SS chain and use a 3/32 chainring and cog and you should have enough play in the whole works to run things just fine.

Go for it. You'll know if things aren't right in the first easy spin around the block.

[SynicGeek]

The DA Track crank/BB combo is probly stiffer than the Race Face, just a thoguht.
Brett

[i8urbrain]

I got my frame today from Waterford, and I got my Miche Track crank on the same day, it was a beautifull thing. I am going to run a 109 BB and the phil hubs. Most of what I hear about having to run odd sized gears is superstition. Explain why it wears out less. Yeah I thought so. Figuring out gear inches is the plan, and I have scored some old Modello brake levers to trick the front end out with. Those mixed with one Paul cross lever and a Salsa Cross bar will work great. adjusting to 167.5mm cranks will take some time, but I have lots of that.