Difference in mtb/ commuter bikes

[Flandry]

Hi, this is my first post here. I've been doing a lot of reading of bike reviews, because the used bike i bought when i got to school is trashed (broken spokes, rear axle, brakes lever, etc) and i need a new one. I plan on using it to commute to school, and probably go mtbiking occasionly, especially after i graduate. I tried Slickrock a few times and loved that (but my hands are still recovering LOL), and have done some steep downhills, as well. Never had a shock - previously used a 10+ yr old GT Timberline. Never plan on doing these 4' drops people always mention. So i've never ridden anything but a MTB, even around town.

Anyway, i'm a bit confused about the difference between the less extreme mountain bikes and the "hybrid" bikes. I first started out looking at the (to me) amazingly-priced $150 mongoose dual-suspension aluminum framed bike at Walmart, because i thought mongoose was a good brand, and was vaguely aware that dual shocks and AL frames are more expensive options. After reading some reviews, i'm not sure that such an inexpensive bike will be a good purchase. I don't really WANT to spend more than $200 on a bike, but if spending $300 will get me a bike that will be significantly more reliable and/or superior, i'm willing to do that.

I stumbled upon reviews of the Trek 4300, and it seems to be exceptionally good, (especially the frame) albeit a bit more than my $300 tag. When checking out the manuf. page, i saw the 7200 for about the same price, and can't figure out what the real differences are. Which of these bikes better fits my planned use?
Also,
1) What is the difference between the $150 mongoose and the $350 Trek?
2) Is a dual shock too much of a handicap for a bike used at least 50% for commuting?
3) Is there a bike that better fits my expected usage that's less expensive than the Trek 4300?
4) Is an aluminum frame something that is worth paying extra for based on my intended usage?

I appreciate any help or advice you can give me. Thanks in advance!

[kennbenny667]

The difference between the mongoose and the trek.... NIGHT AND DAY! That Mongoose was put together by someone who works in sporting goods, electronics, and gardening. It may be dual suspension, but it's design is dramatically outdated and the shocks pretty much suck for commuting or long trail riding. You will most likely not get a warranty on the bike, and you sure as hell won't get a service plan.
I recommend the Trek for commuting or just to collect dust in your garage. Any reputable shop should swap the knobby tires that come with the bike for slick tires for free when you buy the bike. You'll also most likely get a service plan from the shop, take advantage of it! As far as warrantees go, in my humble opinion, Trek has the best customer service in the industry. I frequent a pretty large Trek dealer here in the Chicago area, and Trek bends over backwards to serve it's customers and dealers. As far as aluminum frames, they tend to send more shock to the user than steel but it's a personal thing. You probably not paying more for the aluminum frame on a bike I bet it's the components.
Some things to look for on that Trek and in the shop.
1. Rack and fender mounts. Crucial for many commuters.
2. Mr. Tuffies. Worth their weight in adamantium.
3. Make sure the bike has properly tuned suspension (if you choose so, it isn't necessary for commuting or light trail riding.)
4. I'm in college too, and if you hint at your financial situation and/or shoot the shit with the owner for a while he might let you have a demo bike or last year's model for a nice discount.
5. Happy commuting. I know it's a new bike with nice stickers and whatnot, but I'd consider "uglifying" it to make it less appealing to thieves on campus.

[bikertrash]

If you wanted a purely commuter bike the Trek 7200 would be an excellent choice, however since you want to do some mountain bikeing as well then go with the 4300. I have a Trek 7300 and I love it, but I wouldn't take it on anything much rougher than a gravel road and the tires just don't get along with deep mud to well. I've heard good things of the 4300 and I'm sure it'll take care of all your offroad and commuting needs.

[Flandry]

Ok, thanks for the information. I've read a lot and learned a lot over the past week. Still have no idea what "Mr. Tuffies" are, but i haven't done a search for it yet, anyway.

What really caught my attention was the comment about fender and rack mounts. My current junker has these plastic fenders added that really are nice when it rains (which is most of the time lately). Is that something only possible with fender mounts, or do fender mounts just make it easier? How many bikes have these "fender mounts", for it's not something i've heard of before. Same for the rack mounts.

Thanks for the info. I'm now looking at a last year GT Aggressor 1, because i can get it for $300 but it listed for $580, which makes me think it's probably a better bike than these others. If you have any thoughts on that i'd love to hear them.

And how much is a Cannondale frame worth? Is it really worth the huge amounts i see people paying for a used Cannondale?

Anyway, thanks again.

[bikertrash]

You can mount fenders using hose clamps and such, but mounts make life a lot easier. Look for atleast one moount on each of the chainstays where you mount the tire, it's just a hole where you can put a screwinto. Usually you get two, but my Trek only has one on each side, I was able to mount both my rack and fenders with it... it's best you ask the dealere as it's real hard to explain. You'll find the bikes in your price range probably have the mounts and the more expensive a bike is, the less likely they have those moounts, kind of weird. I hope you have fun, that GT sounds like a good deal, if it falls through, also look at the trek 800 and 820, they list for less than 300, and they have steel frames,(which is good) and all the mounting stuff you can ask for. I don't mind aluminum, but there are some good arguments for steel and it is definitly a proven material.

[steve sammons]

IN MY OPINION HE'S RIGHT ABOUT THE RACK/FENDER MOUNTS AND SUCH,BUT PERSONALLY,I WOULDN'T GO W/ THE 800 OR 820,THE STEEL USED IN THEM IS HEAVY AND NOT RELLY A GOOD GRADE.I HAVE SOME PERSONAL EXP. W/ THE 820 (MY WIFE HAS 1),AND I'VE HAD MY 6000 SINCE '00.SO FAR I'VE UPGRADED EVERYTHING BUT THE BRAKES.
ALL. IS A LIL ATIFFER THAN STEEL,BUT HAVING SEMI/SEVERE SPINAL PROBLEMS DUE TO A BIG RIG WRECK (AMONG OTHER THINGS),IM FINE W/ MINE.I DID ADD A SUS SEATPOST A YEAR AGO.
SOMTHIN ELSE TO CHECK IF THE GT FALLS THRU,UR TREK DEALER MAY ALSO CARRY GARY FISHER BIKES,AS THEY R 1 COMPANY NOW,GENESIS GEOMETRY MAY SUIT YOU BETTER THAN THE TREK'S.I BOUGHT A $285 (LIST) GF ADVANCE FOR $245 SANS DER.S AND SHIFTERS,W/ A BRAKE LEVER UPGRADE FOR $245,AND USIN A SURLY SINGLEATER CONVERTED IT TO SS-I HAVE A FEW SS'S,INCLUDIN A 3 MONTH OLD SURLY 1X1,BUT I DIDN'T HAVE ANY W/ DISC BRAKE TABS (OR ALL. FRAME),AND THIS WAS AN ECONOMICAL WAY TO GET IT.DESPITE DOCS WARNINGS,I'VE RIDDEN IT QUITE A LOT IN THE LAST FEW WEEKS,AND MOST OF IT WAS ON ROAD.I DON'T OWN A ROADIE,BUT DUE TO MY INJURIES,MOST OF MY RIDING IS ON ROADS NOW.SEMI SLICK TIRES REALLY MAKE A DIFRENCE,AND U WANNA MAKE SURE UR VISIBLE,COMFORTABLE IN RAIN,CARRY SOME KINDA MULTI TOOL,AND HYDRATE WELL.DIRT RAG IS ALSO THE BEST SOURCE I'VE FOUND FOR ARTICLES ON EVERYTHIN FROM BEER TO COMMUTIN,AND THEY USUALLY INSPIRE ME TO RIDE WHEN I DON'T REALLY FEEL LIKE IT.ANYWAY,GOOD LUCK AND HOPE ANY OF THIS HELPS.

[Flandry]

Thanks for all the information. I found that the more i read reviews and asked questions, the more expensive my tastes were getting, and my old bike is in the final convulsions (literally) of death, so without further ado i bought a used bike on Ebay last week. It's a Specialized Rockhopper, about four years old but supposed to have little previous use (we'll see). It may have been a bad move, it's one of those things you see and you bid on, and next thing you know, it's yours. I'm hoping the Rockhopper frame hasn't been improved so much in the last few years that getting an old used one for a lesser price instead of a modern cheaper bike isn't a bad move. Anyways, i'm prepared to live with the decision. At some point, you just gotta buy the bike and hope it works out.

I bought the Cateye EL200 for safety and in case of a need for an emergency light at night, and a red LED back blinker as well. Got a good deal on a Bell Aquila helmet, which seems to be pretty nice from the reviews i've read, and plan on getting an "Anti Scam Cam" for my seat. Does anyone know where these can be purchased?

I hope to put semi-slicks on the bike in the near future. I'm tired of being passed like i'm standing still while biking around town by people on roadbikes and such. Does the brand and model matter for tires, or should i just ask my LBS for semi-slicks?


Thanks again

[kennbenny667]

As far as tires go, I've head great things about the on road duralbiliy of Continentals, but I like my 15.99 Performance specials just fine.

[jagur]

Anyway, i'm a bit confused about the difference between the less extreme mountain bikes and the "hybrid" bikes.

this is easy,the differance is about 10 miles per hour faster in favor of the bigger (700c) wheels and higher pressure tyres. MTB's are dogs on the pave' lifeless dogs!

[JRA]

Originally posted by Flandry
I hope to put semi-slicks on the bike in the near future. I'm tired of being passed like i'm standing still while biking around town by people on roadbikes and such.

You're much better off getting a set of inexpensive 1.25" or 1.5" slicks for your mtb than running semi-slicks. I had really good luck with my pair of IRC Metro's. IMO, you'll be wasting your money on the semi's. Semi-slicks are intended for very hard pack mtb racing.

The extra time you spend swapping out tires will be well spent. Have fun on your "new" R'hopper!

[The Rose]

hey kennybenny , i like the reference to adamantium BUB!!