I can't seem to catch a BRAKE...

[ThingTwo]

I have a new q/r fork and the 100mm hub clearance is to tight. My AVID calipers are practically scraping the rotor's inside surface. What I need to do is to either chase (machine) the inside of the dropouts or shim the rotors to clear the inside of the caliper. I would prefer to use shims. Well I found some nice shims... syntace shims (http://http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR407Z01-Syntace+Disc+Shims.aspx). I shouldn't need more than 1mm but now I wonder if I will need a longer bolt (or do they even exist):confused: Though I will contact both Manitou and SRAM I was more compelled to post my latest conundrum here.

thanks,

Me

[rockhound]

Don't your Avids have CPS (Caliper Positioning System)?

[rockyrider]

The Manitou forks are all post mount and there usually isn't very much clearance between the rotor and the posts to be moving the rotor closer. It'd be worth double checking that hub has the axle centered and that your brake caliper is free to move laterally to allow the CPS adjustment to work.

[rockhound]

If you have a Manitou with post-mounts, are you using conical washers between the posts and the caliper?

I do and still use the standard bolts.

[ThingTwo]

uuuh, of course the 'CPS' is present and yes it works... so well in fact that the caliper is all the way in. Also My hub does not have a threaded axle (HOPE XC) it has a non-adjustable, press fit cassette bearing system. My hubs are "perfectly" aligned.

The Manitou forks are all post mount and there usually isn't very much clearance between the rotor and the posts to be moving the rotor closer.
-rockyrider

Thanks Rockyrider, I will check for leg/rotor clearance.

[tryandgetme]

I have the same problem with one of my singlespeed hubs, if I position my avid mechs far enough to let the red knob clear the spokes, there's no room for the inner pad, the rotor is pushed right into the caliper side. It's the thickness of the caliper that's the problem, it's nothing CPS can solve. I solved it by shimming the rotor. Bigass hole punch + tin snips + a few soup cans did it. Also the bolt is M5x0.80xhowever-long-you-need, so just run down to your local hardware store and grab a handful of allen key head bolts if you need longer ones. I didn't, but I wanted to use multiple wheelsets on that bike so I needed another set of rotor bolts. I used the 16mm long ones, which are longer than stock but fit fine on my DMR hub.