Another chain tensioner Q

[bfloyd6969]

Has anyone used a chain tensioner with their aluminum frame with replaceable dropout successfully? Is their one over the other that works better with a replaceable hanger (Surly, Convert, Melvin)? I know an aluminum ss is harsh but it's all I have. Thanks.

[Kamikaze]

I assume you mean a frame with replaceable derailleur hanger. If so, yes, many people have successfully used a tensioner on one of those. If you have the means -and are using V's or Avid mechs- the White Industries Eno hub is supposed to be one of the best tensioners. The Surly Singulator appears to be a love or hate, hit or miss item. Some love them, some don't. Most frames can take a non-spring-loaded tensioner (like the Rennen and DMR clones) and those seem to be the schnitzle. But, for the Rennen et al, you would have to check if your drop outs can take them (breezer drop outs are a no-no with those)

Finally, punching you in the face for being late is harsh, an aluminum hardtail is just less comfortable than it's steel counterpart -well, some times.

[Teamfubar]

I have a C'dale SS that was my late father's mountain bike. I had her repainted and converted to SS with a Surly Singleator. No issues there at all. She is a sweet ride now for sure!

[bfloyd6969]

I assume you mean a frame with replaceable derailleur hanger. If so, yes, many people have successfully used a tensioner on one of those. If you have the means -and are using V's or Avid mechs- the White Industries Eno hub is supposed to be one of the best tensioners. The Surly Singulator appears to be a love or hate, hit or miss item. Some love them, some don't. Most frames can take a non-spring-loaded tensioner (like the Rennen and DMR clones) and those seem to be the schnitzle. But, for the Rennen et al, you would have to check if your drop outs can take them (breezer drop outs are a no-no with those)

Finally, punching you in the face for being late is harsh, an aluminum hardtail is just less comfortable than it's steel counterpart -well, some times.

Thanks. Does the DMR STS have enough side to side movement to fit in about the center of the cassette like the Surly does? I want to run a bash guard on my outer ring space and use the middle ring space for my chain ring. This aligns my rear cog approx. in the center of the cassette.

[hooker_47]

Thanks. Does the DMR STS have enough side to side movement to fit in about the center of the cassette like the Surly does? I want to run a bash guard on my outer ring space and use the middle ring space for my chain ring. This aligns my rear cog approx. in the center of the cassette.

My Trek is set up the same way. I ran a Race Face bashguard on the front and used the middle chain ring mounts for my chainring. I ran the surly tensioner, which worked okay, but just today I installed the Rennen tensioner, which is fantastic. It fit perfectly. No side-to-side adjustment required. I believe the DMR is very similar, and actually allows for a little adjustment. It should work just fine. If not, both the Rennen and the Surly will work.

[myron]

I had this geared frame that I really liked....

[real_ss_budgie]

I had this geared frame that I really liked....
Yesterday, 02:10 PM





myron

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Join Date: Dec 2005

Location: Lawrence Ks

Posts: 4,397







I had this geared frame that I really liked....

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el chingar

[50 Mission Cap]

You might as well just have gears if yer using a tensioner. Myron will second that. Get a frame w/ horizontal drop outs, and yer in business, sell this other ride on ebay.

[sportcult]

Ghost Cog!

Simple. Light. Effective.

[tryandgetme]

also makes people give you that beautiful "wtf" look

[robcycle]

Ghost Cog!

Simple. Light. Effective.
Yeah, WTF! Does that work!? I can visualize it in my head, but ... man :eek:

Also, is there any particular way to size your ghost cog, or do you just pick a bigger cog than on the cassette and find a spot where it fits?

Also, why have I never heard of this before?

-Rob.

[sportcult]

It works if your chainline clears the chainstay enough. I use a 24t and have the chainline set pretty far inward. You just push it back towards the rear hub until the desired tension is reached. You don't want it to be too much bigger than the cog it's driving or too close or you'll loose chain wrap. It stays in place nice and tight. An added benefit is that it keeps tension in both directions so you don't get any slack when you back pedal; you can even use it on a fixie. I haven't had much luck with the spring type tensioners. I do have a DMR tension seeker (fixed roller) that works really well on another bike.