Issue 149 Places to Ride: Northern Georgia

By Shannon Mominee

It's a cliché, but when I think of Georgia, I think of peaches. Blame it on marketing and the image on their state license plate. Apples don't cross my mind, nor does mountain biking, but perhaps they should. Tons of apples grow throughout the region and mountain biking is a staple of life here. The mountainous northern portion of the state is full of national forests and wildlife management areas. In fact, Gilmer County, in north central Georgia, is touted as "The Mountain Biking Capital of Georgia." We were invited by the fine folks of Gilmer County to come down and check out their trails.

Before they were "their" trails, however, the Cherokee tribe populated western Georgia and considered this spiritual land home. One of the flagship mountain biking trails in the region—and an (IMBA) Epic—the Pinhoti trail (meaning "where the turkey live") was essentially created by American Indians. White expansion proved to be brutal on some tribes, but the Cherokee assimilated many European customs; they developed the Cherokee alphabet; Talking Leaves, created a representational government, and built roads, schools and churches.

But then in 1828, gold was discovered in northern Georgia, and in 1830 Congress passed the Indian Removal Act. Following court battles and corrupt treaties with the Cherokee Nation, thousands of men from the U.S. Army forcibly removed native men, women and children from their land. Then-governor George Gilmer, the county's namesake, helped force the Cherokee out. The 1,000-mile march to "reserved" land in Oklahoma became known as the Trail of Tears. A lack of food, water and shelter resulted in the death of about 4,000 Cherokee along the way. Portions of the Pinhoti trail are formed from part of the Trail of Tears.

Like most areas in the United States, this area of Georgia recently fell on hard times, mostly due to the housing bubble. Atlanta is 80 miles to the south and as the city's population exploded, Gilmer County built up its infrastructure to prepare for an influx of urban dwellers escaping big city life. Deals were made, a new fire station was built, and mountaintops were leveled as construction of strip malls began. Today, these half-finished retail shells sit on the roadside and one has to wonder how long those that managed to open will remain viable. The area's largest industry, carpet and flooring, has also taken a hit. Unemployment skyrocketed from 4% in 2007 to over 10%. As a result, northern Georgia (and other rural areas in America) is reinventing itself as a tourism destination.

Gilmer County is comprised of over 50% public land, and the 2007 population estimate was less than 28,400. There are hundreds of miles of dirt roads, and an extensive amount of trailwork resulting in miles of hand- and machine-built, bench-cut trails prime for mountain biking. The Pinhoti trail system alone has 140 miles of shared-use trails open to mountain bikers. Many more miles in other networks and secret trails exist around the state. Hunting on much of the land is legal too, and bikers and hunters have come to respect each other's passion. (Take note of hunting season restrictions before you come down to ride.)

The weather is seemingly always beautiful, and the mountainous north is consistently cooler than other places in the state, without the humidity I've experienced in Atlanta and Savannah. Average high temperatures in the summer range from highs in the mid-80s to lows in the 60s. During the winter, highs hover in the mid-40s with lows near 30—year-round pedaling weather.

This past March, Justin, Karl, Matt and I packed up our test bikes as our local trails recovered from four feet of snow. Spring break in Georgia! Count me in. I imagined leisurely rides in the sun followed by hours in the hot tub with microbrews flowing freely.

After a 10-hour drive to Gilmer County, and an extra hour making wrong turns on dark backcountry roads, we rolled into Mulberry Gap, "The Mountain Bike Get-A-Way" (see sidebar). Proprietors Ginni Taylor, Dianne Kepley and her son Andrew Gates welcomed us. They've made their business catering to mountain bikers—they love our friendly and easygoing collective mentality. From here, one can pedal to sections of the Pinhoti trail, as well as Bear Creek, Mountain Creek and a few others.

A group from Canada was also staying at Mulberry Gap, and their friendly, light-hearted company made our stay more enjoyable. With visions of singletrack flowing in our heads, Karl set his clock for 7:30 a.m. and we hit the sack.

Near dawn, we woke to ceramic mugs warmed on the wood-burning stove and a breakfast fit for a king with quantities to feed his army. We ate, changed into our riding gear and packed provisions for a three-hour ride on Pinhoti 3 and 4 (the numbers refer to sections of the Pinhoti system, as designated by the local mountain bikers), using Tatum Gap as a link. Rick Moon, president of the Georgia Pinhoti Trail Association, was our guide, and we invited the group from Canada to join us as well.

Pinhoti 3, 4 and Tatum Gap
Elevation Gain: 4,546 feet

From Mulberry Gap, we pedaled about a mile to the Pinhoti 3 trailhead. Riding Pinhoti 3 and 4 with Tatum Gap as a connector provided about 22 miles of pure tight and twisty singletrack with some doubletrack. This portion of the trail was challenging and not beginner-friendly. Steep switchback turns were so tight that Karl fell sideways and rolled bike-over-body, narrowly missing Matt and me on the trail below.

It seemed most of our six-hour day had the front wheel pointed up, and my granny gear saw more action than it has in the past few years combined. But when the trail sloped back down and gravity was our friend, the swooping downhills on the clay-rich soil were a welcome reward for our efforts. Waterfalls, stream crossings and moss-covered rocks provided an incredible backdrop for more hours in the saddle than we had planned. Eventually, we all ran out of food and water.

After arriving back at Mulberry Gap slightly dehydrated and hungry, we rested our feet on the cabin porch and popped a few tops of New Belgium while dinner was prepared. To create her tasty and bountiful home cookin', Ginni uses only antibiotic- and hormone-free meats and organic ingredients when available. Dianne and Andrew laid out a spread that lit up the eyes of a room full of hungry mountain bikers. Ginni's special pulled pork lived up to the hype, and the beer bread, corn bread, baked beans with bacon, and corn on the cob left my stomach on the edge of bursting. Then the cheesecake was served. 7:30 a.m. came even earlier the next day.

Snake Creek Gap
Elevation Gain: 6,147 feet


Snake Creek Gap is a portion of the Pinhoti Trail System located near the town of Dalton in the Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest. The area played an important role during the Civil War, when in 1864 Union General William T. Sherman swung around and behind Confederate General Joseph Johnston's troops by following the Gap. This led to Sherman taking control of Atlanta, which helped to end the war. 


The trail also hosts the Snake Creek Gap Six Mountain Time Trial (see sidebar). In its entirety, the Snake, as it's known, is 34 miles long, but broken into two 17-mile sections by GA Route 136. Most people I talked to admitted to riding just one of the sections at a time, and never, or rarely, ride both on the same day. The forecast was 70° with sunshine, the Dirt Rag crew was eager to ride. The choice was presented to us: 17 or 34? Like greedy kids offered candy, we gladly accepted 34 miles.


For 17 miles, we climbed a lot of singletrack and lost most elevation via a gravel road. At the halfway point, we met our support vehicles and refilled our hydration packs, ate some food and came to the realization that "spring break" was more like freaking boot camp. Our group of a dozen split into two as some ate and others kept pedaling. The challenge was on, and laughing and riding in the warmth of the sun kept us motivated to finish. Of course, it helped that our ride leader, Rick Moon of NWGA SORBA, had a kegerator and lived near the finish line.


The second half of the ride was not for the weak of heart and became progressively more difficult as the end drew near. When it was all said and done, we had crossed six ridges and climbed over 6,100 feet. The last five miles offered an uphill rock garden, including a steep, nasty section the locals refer to as "the wall." In between sporadic rocky sections, the ridgeline provided amazing views of the surrounding mountains, as well as Civil War fortifications and the burial site of a World War II pilot who crashed on the ridge. Across the valley, the ultimate goal stood in the distance, a cell phone tower marking the end of our route. 


Periodically, we stopped to snap photos and eat fruit or energy bars. During one such photo session, Justin framed Matt riding toward him in the viewfinder when Matt suddenly disappeared, nearly toppling over a cliff. With his foot on the only rock in the vicinity and off-balance, Justin grabbed Matt's arm, pulled him up and took the photo, too. 


Rick met us at the tower and we followed him back to his house on a locals-only super secret trail. We drank a few mugs of brew next to the fire, feeling good about the ride and amazed that no one was hurt. But food was in our future at Mulberry Gap, so we piled in the van and headed back to camp. A steaming pot of jumbo shrimp, sausage, potatoes, and corn on the cob awaited us. No time for a shower, we headed straight for the hot food. In typical fashion, gooey brownies and ice cream were the chaser.


Bear Creek Trail

Elevation Gain: 1,200 feet



After two days of hard riding, we woke early yet again and staggered around looking for our gear. Clothing and tools were misplaced now and I longingly looked at the hot tub. After devouring another large breakfast, we drove over to Bear Creek, where we volunteered for a trail maintenance session followed by a ride. 


Bear Creek is situated in the Cohutta Mountain Range on the eastern side of the Great Valley in the Cohutta Wilderness. It's part of the Pinhoti Trail system and was opened to mountain biking in 1990 through a joint effort between SORBA and the Cohutta District of the U.S. Forest Service. There's primitive camping at Bear Creek for $5/night and the Bear Creek trailhead is just after the campground. This beautiful area boasts one of the most scenic rides in Gilmer County. The Bear Creek trail can be looped or ridden straight up to the overlook before providing a rush back down the same trail. Hemlock, pine, and thick rhododendron flank the single- and doubletrack. In the warmer months, the area comes to life with the sounds of singing frogs we were told, but in March it was silent except for the sound of cool water rushing past rocks in the creek. 


We parked on Gates Chapel and cycled the gravel road to the trailhead to meet the Ellijay Mountain Bike Association and other volunteers for a trail workday. Andrew from Mulberry Gap and Bruce Dickman, event announcer extraordinaire, were waiting for us. They introduced us to Mike Palmeri, owner of Cartecay River Bike Shop, our guide on this adventure.


As we began to ascend the singletrack to an area that needed to be cut back, my heart rate reached a high peak, my legs still tired from the two previous rides. I followed the trailer Mike towed, which was loaded with a chainsaw and tools, and watched him blow through stream crossings and muscle up and over rocks like they were nothing. I nearly wondered aloud what we got ourselves into.


After a couple hours of cutting overgrowth and swatting bugs, we rode to the overlook to bomb back down the trail we had just cleared. Ah, the satisfaction. From the Bear Creek trailhead to the overlook was a gradual seven-mile climb that was equal parts singletrack and old logging road. We crossed the actual Bear Creek at least five times and the sound of rushing water could be heard throughout the entire journey. The Cherokee were right—Bear Creek felt special and meditative, with the thick smell of the forest all around. 


It was worth riding to the overlook to take in the view and feel the breeze, then ride 100 yards higher to a sweet piece of rough singletrack that began on the right. This section was fast and went by quick with one hairpin switchback before intersecting the lower trail. Now pointed downhill, this wide-open, fast descent had a dozen or so water breaks that were the perfect kickers for catching air. I sped behind Justin and watched him air out the tabletops, rail the curves and send water flying in a whoosh at every creek crossing. We had to keep alert for hikers. The trail is heavily used but wide enough to see oncoming traffic. Everyone we encountered was friendly and trail etiquette went a long way.


Two miles in to the Bear Creek trail stands an immense old-growth yellow poplar tree known as the Gennett Poplar. It's about 20 feet in circumference and was saved from clear cutting during the Great Depression by the Gennett family. It was beautiful but sad, too, the lone survivor.


We ate lunch at Mulberry Gap, then packed up and headed over to a private cabin called "Forever Friday," offered by Sliding Rock Cabins, to stay the remaining three nights. As we settled in, Bob Bartels, who helped arrange this trip, and his son Davis came over for dinner. Mike Palmeri and his wife Terry, extending their Southern hospitality, arrived with heaping portions of homemade lasagna, pie and homegrown bean salad. Great food, wonderful conversation and good beer ended the day perfectly.


River Loop, Boy Scout, and the Red and White Loop

Elevation Gain: 1,441 feet



The next morning we woke to the threat of rain. Justin and I decided to meet Mike at Cartecay River Bike Shop in Ellijay to ride River Loop, while Karl and Matt flipped open their laptops to catch up on work. The town of Ellijay sits on the site of an old Cherokee village and the native word means "earth green there."


About 15 minutes from Ellijay, where GA Route 515 meets GA Route 52, is River Loop, Boy Scout, and the Red and White Loop, among the oldest trails in northern Georgia. River Loop actually hosted the first mountain bike race in the southeast in 1984. Of all the trails we rode, these three were the most beginner-friendly and relatively flat with just a few short climbs. 


River Loop is a 3.2-mile trail roughly the shape of Florida. From the trailhead, River Loop meets then follows a portion of the Cartecay River, turns away from it, curves left and loops back toward it before ending where it began. The ground was covered in a tire-silencing layer of pine needles, making the rushing water audible anywhere on the trail. There were a few technical sections that had a nice flow to them, a stream crossing or two, and pull-offs to gaze at the river. Mike showed us a spot not far in that looked like people have been enjoying for years. A good-sized fire pit was in close proximity to a huge rock jutting into the river. On a sunny day it must be amazing to lie there. This and the multiple, but small, sandy beaches would make for the perfect place to relax, sit in the sun, take in the scenery, and introduce someone to mountain biking without overwhelming them. 


The Red and White Loop is named from the red and white blazes that mark the trail. It's basically a 2.5-mile loop forming the panhandle that can be used for extra mileage, or to shorten the second half of the River Loop. The terrain was similar to River Loop with one moderate climb. We rode the Red and White Loop to get to the Boy Scout Loop, an extension loop off the tip of Red and White that adds a little less than a mile. As tired as I felt, I'm glad we rode the three loops. The rain missed us, and the trails were completely different from the previous days of riding.


Rain began to fall as we returned to the cabin with groceries to settle in for the night and get some typing done. Matt and Karl had started a fire, but it was smoky from moist wood. Frozen pizza and a glass of whiskey—now that's how work gets done. 


Stanley Gap

Elevation Gain: 3,725 feet



The next morning I woke to the sound of Karl in the kitchen below, grinding coffee. I staggered down the pine steps for a cup of fresh-brewed and paused in front of the window, not believing what I saw. Even as the words, "It's snowing" left my mouth, I still had trouble believing it. We drove 10 hours to escape winter and there it was. Nevertheless, we filled our packs with food, water and tools and jumped in the van for the Waffle House; it's Karl's weakness. After a high-calorie breakfast, we headed to Cartecay River to meet Mike. 


He was opening for business, expecting a phone call canceling the ride, and could hardly believe that we were walking down the sidewalk toward him. Mike excitedly called his cousin Rob Palmeri and told him to come on over—we did indeed show up for the four-hour ride, albeit lacking the proper footwear and gloves...spring break my ass.


Stanley Gap is located in the Chattahoochee National Forest off of GA Route 515 near Blue Ridge. The trailhead and parking lot is on Rock Creek Rd. This was a beautifully scenic 18.6-mile ride, including Flat Creek trail, that felt very backcountry and peaceful. The trail began with a two-mile climb and nearly 1000 feet of elevation gain that got the blood flowing and the heart pumping. Thereafter, the trail had many downhill sections on pine needle-covered dirt, but numerous steep, mile-long climbs put the granny gear back into action. We stopped often to take in the spectacular snowy ridgeline view before attacking the flowy descents. 


Of all the trails we rode, we agreed this was our favorite. There were some rock and root sections that you didn't want to crash on, and technical areas that kept you alert, but Stanley Gap had a rhythm that not even the weather could interrupt. It was fun, demanding singletrack that was challenging and worth experiencing.


Mike's route ended with about four miles of paved and dirt road going past green valleys and private cabins to get back to the van. Even with frozen toes and fingers, our spirits couldn't be dampened. 


That evening we headed over to Jilly's Irish Pub (see sidebar) to meet the folks from the Gilmer County Chamber of Commerce and those that made our trip possible. Over good food, beer and wine, we discussed the potential northern Georgia has for the outdoor community and mountain biking in particular. 


Bear Creek Loop Trail and Pinhoti 1 and 2

Elevation Gain: 2,772 feet



On our final day of riding, we returned to Bear Creek to ride the Bear Creek Loop trail and Pinhoti 1 and 2. We were happy and fortunate that Mike, Rob and Andrew could accompany us for the last ride. 


Bear Creek was truly a great place and a ride there could be as difficult or as long as desired. We began by climbing up the forest service road again and continued 3-4 miles past the Bear Creek trailhead. At the first gate we turned right—the beginning of the Bear Creek Loop. 


This trail was technical singletrack with tight and twisty turns. There was some steep climbing, but the majority was flowy downhill. At the bottom there's a wide creek full of rocks. Be sure you don't take a header into the creek like Rob did. After crossing the creek, a steep shoot put us just up the trail from the Bear Creek parking lot and trailhead. We turned right, climbed a short distance and made a left on Pinhoti 1, which goes up and over Parks Ridge. The trail ended at a dirt road, where we turned left and rode a short distance to the beginning of Pinhoti 2.


Pinhoti 2 began with a steep, grinding climb a few miles long that went over Double Top Mountain. There were some roots and rocks, but mostly a lot of wide turns on a logging road. There's an open area at the top with a gate that begins the fast singletrack descent leading to Mulberry Gap Road. We paused in the sun before heading back down, snapped a group photo and took a victorious swig of whisky. (Thanks to Mike for carrying the bottle.) The descent was fast and there were a lot of little kickers, switchbacks and a few low branches. Other than that, obstacles were scarce so we let it rip and hit the berms high. 


In five days of hard riding, we had only two flats and no injuries, but barely touched the available miles of singletrack in the area. The people we met took great care of us, met us with handshakes and sent us off with hugs. They are proud of their trails and of the hard work they put into them to keep them rideable. All of the singletrack is amazing. 


From the Cherokee to the folks living on the land today, they've all realized that northern Georgia stores a wealth of opportunity in its natural resources. The late Jay "M.O.E." Syrmanske, one of the early leaders in promoting mountain bike tourism in the area, tried for twenty years to get a magazine to visit the area. Well Jay, Dirt Rag came, albeit a year too late to share the visit with you. 


Mulberry Gap Mountain Bike Get-A-Way
Mulberry Gap is located nine miles from Ellijay in the Chattahoochee National Forest, and is probably Georgia's best kept secret for comfortable lodging, incredible meals and easy access to the Pinhoti trail system. The secluded property offers three bunkhouses with four beds in each, and one couples or family cabin with a bunk bed and a king-size bed. Each cabin has a streamside deck with a hot tub, towels and robes. 


Breakfast and dinner are included with lodging, and these home-cooked meals will not leave you hungry. You may even put on weight. All are served in the communal dinning/social hall or in the event barn near the fire pit, and any dietary need can be accommodated. When possible, organic ingredients are used. A tailored meal schedule is available for race teams using Mulberry Gap as a training base.


A bathhouse with clean, private showers and plenty of hot water, bike/dog wash station, laundry facilities, recreation room and good times are included. The owners live on-site, are incredibly hospitable and love mountain bikers. All you have to do is eat, sleep and ride and they will handle the rest.


Bunkhouse rental including two meals is $65/night Sunday through Thursday and $10 more Friday and Saturday. Bunkhouse capacity is limited to 20, but there are plenty of primitive campsites available for $15/night with all the amenities mentioned extended to campers, and meals can be purchased ala carte for $10/breakfast and $15/dinner. 


Some trailheads are within pedaling distance, but Mulberry Gap offers a free shuttle service and has a 12-bike trailer, as well as a licensed EMT, on hand. Pets are welcome for $5-10/night. Wireless is available, but don't count on cell phone service.


400 Mulberry Gap Road, Ellijay, GA 30540
866-635-1740
www.mulberrygap.com

Snake Creek Gap 6 Mountain Time Trial Series
Otherwise known as The Snake, this is one of the largest races in northern Georgia. This point-to-point time trial series is raced on the Pinhoti Trail System in Dalton the first Saturday of January, February and March. Riders can race one Saturday or all three with their best time counted, and one entry fee covers the cost of all attempts at racing.

Two distance options are available, either 17 or 34 miles, and the halfway point is marked by a mountain gap, now a road, that was conveniently formed by a glacier. General Sherman also marched the Union troops through the gap during the American Civil War on his way to Atlanta. The first 17 miles is a nice singletrack climb with a few downhill runs, but most elevation loss occurs on a gravel road.

The 17-mile option is arguably the better half and begins with a grinding climb from a parking lot. The majority of this portion is tight and twisty singletrack along Hurricane Mountain and Rocky Face Ridge, with the amount of rocks and technical rocky climbs increasing as the end nears. The last five miles is all uphill on a beautiful ridgeline through sporadically placed rock gardens. (This was my favorite part of the ride.)

The Snake has been held since 1995 by the Northwest Georgia Chapter of IMBA/SORBA. This year 380 riders took part. Money raised from the event benefits mountain biking in northwest Georgia, as well as the Boys and Girls Club, The Pinhoti Trail Association, Raisin Woods Mountain Bike Park, and local school bike programs.

For more information, visit the Northwest Georgia SORBA website at www.nwgasorba.com.

Cartecay River Bike Shop
Mike Palmeri, shop owner and firefighter, is one of the most knowledgeable bike and trail experts in northern Georgia. His shop in Ellijay is minutes away from many trailheads and is well-stocked to keep you outfitted and your bike rolling. If you are unfamiliar with the northern Georgia trails, it's a good idea to stop in and talk to Mike. He can recommend the trail that will fit your desired distance and difficulty level and tell you the trail conditions; he knows the trails well, since he spends 300+ hours per year doing trail maintenance in the area. Mike can also explain the history of the region, sell you a trail map or guide book, and meeting him is guaranteed to make your trip more enjoyable. He's just a good dude that will make you laugh, and if he has time he may ride along with you.

Check out his Palmeri custom frames and the changing kilts his wife Terry makes while you're there. Don't forget to give shop dog Chewy a good scratch behind the ears on the way out.

131 North Main St, Ellijay, GA 30540
888-276-BIKE
www.cartecaybikes.com

Sliding Rock Cabins
If relaxing in a private cabin setting after a day of mountain biking is more your style, Sliding Rock Cabins manage about 45 luxury, privately owned cabins to accommodate just about everyone's needs. Cabins range between $120-$185 a night with 1-4 bedrooms to choose from. Some cabins are located on the Ellijay River and trout fishing (catch and release) is allowed. Large decks with hot tubs overlooking the water, firepits, laundry, stocked kitchens and provisions for grilling outside are also offered.

The Dirt Rag crew stayed at "Forever Friday," a four-bedroom cabin with all the amenities mentioned, wall-to-wall pine, two fireplaces and two bathrooms. Very comfortable, and with internet access, too. Trailheads are a 10-20 minute drive and grocery stores and restaurants are minutes away.

Grab some friends and pool your money, or take the family on a nice vacation. Sliding Rock's website features the location and description of all their cabins, as well as rules and facts.

Oh, did I mention that they are pet-friendly and don't charge extra for your pet? C'mon boy! Let's go to the mountains.

866-666-2224
www.slidingrockcabins.com

Other Attractions in Northern Georgia
When your legs need a break from pedaling, Gilmer County and the surrounding area have plenty of outdoor activities to offer. Guided horseback trail rides, hiking, trout fishing, and water sport rentals are all nearby. For something less strenuous, picnic near a waterfall or on a large rock or sandy beach near the Cartecay River. The River Loop Trail has perfect spots and is relatively flat.

The quaint and walkable downtown of Ellijay has antique dealers and pottery shops. The Cartecay River Bike Shop holds the fort down for cyclists, and across the street Apple Country Artists makes a great mocha and sells locally made art.

Around the corner, Jilly's Pub has a decent microbrew list and serves a large basket of fish and chips, and their specialty, wings. Give the spicy Asian garlic or sweet jalapeño a try. BBQ joints are abundant and Italian and Mexican food is easy to find as well. In Ellijay, you can walk over to the City Hall and pick up some free brochures.

For more information on the trails and what to do in Gilmer county, visit: www.gilmerchamber.com, www.pinhotitrailalliance.org and www.ellijaymountainbike.org.