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Dirt Rag Articles
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Disclaimer: These are just guidelines for creating a snow toy. The ski bike is not even remotely safe to build, ride, or even stand next to. Many early versions of the ski bike failed miserably, and just because this one’s stayed intact so far, doesn’t mean that yours is going to. So make sure all of your bolts are tight and your life insurance is up to date.
The homemade ski bike was developed late one night before a predicted snowfall. Since its inception, the ski bike has been tested, broken, abused and eventually refined. And to top it off, it’s remarkably simple to make. Here’s what we’ve found to work best. Remember that these instructions are mere guidelines, so I fully expect you to break the rules:
Materials:
-A Frame, fork, and headset that are compatible- A smaller frame is more maneuverable and while suspension is fun, remember that this bike will be subjected to some extreme elements and general abuse, so a rigid fork will make life simpler.
-Stem and handlebars- Any flavor of bars will work, but riser bars are preferable. Flat bars work but will move your weight forward. Drop bars make for a scary ride– I’d say save ‘em for once you’ve gotten used to the ski bike‘s handling. Riser stems are ideal, but anything will suffice.
-Two Skis- Downhill or cross country skis; either will be fine. If you’ve got a worn out pair, that will do it, or if you can convince the local ski shop to hook you up with an old trashed set, that’s even better. They’re getting the chop, so make sure they’re expendable.
-Front and rear skewers
-Grips (not essential, but your hands will thank you)
-A seat and seatpost that fit the frame- the shorter the better.
-A short length of two-by-four
-Eight 1 1/2 inch wood screws
-Four 2 1/2 inch wood screws
Assembly:
1. Assemble the frame, fork, headset, stem and handlebars. Don’t fret over the bar positioning, as you will want to rotate them to the desired angle once the bike is complete. Attach the seat to the seatpost and install it in the frame. Make sure that only a few inches of post show between the frame and the seat. Angle the seat parallel to the top tube.
2. Measure the width of the front dropout, and cut a length of two-by-four to the same width. Assuming you have standard 100mm dropouts, you should now have a piece of wood that is 2”x4”x100mm. Do the same for the rear dropouts, but cut two pieces of 2x4 to this width, which should be 135mm.
3. The next step is tricky. If you happen to have a drill press in your garage, now is when you should use it. You need to drill a hole clean through the block. This hole is going to be where the skewer runs through and attaches the ski to the frame, so make sure you use a drill bit that is at least as large as the skewer you’re using. On one of the 4x2 sides (the sides that you cut in the last step), approximate the center of the block. Drill from that spot clean through to the other side. If your drill bit is too short to do this, drill in from one side and then the other until the two connect. Once you’ve successfully done this, repeat this step for the rear dropout. Put the skewers through the holes to make sure that they’re straight.
4. Grab the 2x4 that you just drilled for the rear dropout, and the undrilled piece of the same size. Using the 2 1/2 inch wood screws, attach the two together with one screw just on the inside of each corner. Now you should have a stack of two 2x4’s with a skewer running through the top one. The extra 2x4 is necessary in order to raise the rear end of the bike, and allow the skis to sit at the same level (this may vary depending on your frame).
5. Cut the skis to a desired length. Leave the curved tip on the ski; cut the flat end. I recommend two feet for the front ski, provided as it isn’t so long that it hits the rear ski while steering. To determine the length of the rear ski, place it so that it runs under the rear dropouts and the bottom bracket shell, with the base of the curved tip sitting just in front of the shell. Mark the ski directly beneath the rear dropouts. Measure (measure twice) one foot back from that mark, and cut (only cut once) there. Hacksaws cut skis quite nicely.
6. Find the midpoint of the front ski. Drill four holes in a square pattern, about two inches apart. Make sure that they’re large enough for the wood screws. Center the front block of 2x4 over the holes in the ski, and install the screws. Make sure they’re as tight as possible to avoid mid-run ski detachment. Don’t worry if the screw heads stick out a bit-– you’re not racing the thing (I hope).
7. Find the spot on the rear ski where you marked the dropouts. Drill the same set of holes there as you did on the front ski. Screw it to the base (the side farthest from the drilled hole) of the 2x4 stack in the same fashion.
8. Your ski bike is almost done; Put the ski assemblies into the dropouts and tighten down the skewers. To prevent the rear ski from clacking against the BB shell, a bit of duct tape wrapped around the ski and through the shell works. If you’re feeling adventurous and your frame has bottom-pull cable routing, you can bolt the ski to the small hole on the bottom of the BB shell.
9. Adjust the handlebar to a comfortable angle and install the grips or bar tape. Adorn with streamers, horns, bells, and Dirt Rag stickers as desired.
And Finally... Your ski bike can be used anywhere there is snow and an incline. Other incarnations can be created by adding runners for added stability, or if your ski bike is having trouble with the front end sinking in deep powder, try turning the stem around to move your weight farther back. If you feel that you need pegs for your feet, grab another foot-long length of 2x4, drill holes for the brake bosses, and bolt it to the fork.
This particular version of the ski bike can only be ridden downhill, but if you want to go for the gusto, try replacing the rear ski with a wheel and a singlespeed drivetrain. Most importantly, take it out and hurt yourself. Enjoy the looks you’ll get when someone sees you bombing down a snowy hillside.
Thanks to Spencer Ahrens for supplying the ski bike line drawing
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| Comment from bradley on 2009-07-10 |
| Try experimenting with different ski lengths. A longer ski will give you greater flotation on powder snow as well as higher overall speed, but sacrifices some maneuverability. |
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| Comment from Joe's Bikers on 2008-12-19 |
| So we found a easier way to make these a bit safer. We made our first version by simply drilling new holes into a standard board front fork mounts. We watched for them on sale and picked them up for about $9-10 each. Then we improved that design by welding up 1/2 gas pipe on angle iron and adding 2 sleves. One that was 1/2 copper pipe, and then the other was 3/8 steel tube. This made for a full pivoting bushing system that still lets us use the larger fork mount QR skewer. We narrowed the frames in the rear following the instructions on Sheldon Brown's web site to get the rear spacing to 100mm to match the front |
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| Comment from johnny depp on 2008-10-22 |
| also dnt take it off a ten foot drop without a landing you wont be walking around for a couple of months |
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| Comment from roger on 2008-05-26 |
| I might add the rider may wish to stay on a hill Other than an operating ski area where hitting a skier or snowboarder may result in an assault and battery law suit! |
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| Comment from Brayden holden on 2008-01-05 |
| Hi nice idea another thing you can do is attach stunt pegs off a bmx to where the peddles used to be and use mini skate bord trucks to attach the forks to the skis. so getthe trucks attach them to the forks (attach them using the bit thet you bolt the weels on to) put the to scrws where the weels go onto the forks they are perfect fit and bolt them on and bold the skis to the bit where the bord normaly goes alotstronger than wood |
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